Wednesday, January 25, 2012

A road trip to the Southern Highlands

Two weeks ago Tanzania celebrated Zanzibar Revolution Day.  Taking advantage of the opportunity to leave town, I joined a friend for a road trip to a tiny village about an hour outside of Mafinga, in the Southern Highlands.  I had little to no idea what to expect – just try to Google it and see what I mean.


Up, up, up we went, shedding the sweltering heat of Dar as we wound our way up the Rift Valley escarpment.  Through Baobab Valley – where ancient trees have stood watch over centuries, silently observing parties like ours, coming and going.  And then a burst of green – rows of tea plantations against a darkening sky.  The fertility of the soil on display in fruit laden vines, masses of pine forests and indigenous trees and the cool damp of the earth.


Here I met a couple who are among the most inspirational people I’ve met since setting foot in the ochre hued dust of sub Saharan Africa.  A former peace corps volunteer and teacher in the highlands outside of Mafinga, her and her husband run the NGO started by Geoff Fox, founder of Fox Farms.  Our ‘tour’ of their work took us from a daycare centre for villagers working for the NGO, to the dorm rooms of young adolescents in the ‘children’s village’, the construction site of a future school and community health centre, vast and lush fruit and vegetable gardens (coined the garden of Eden), to  a mediation to find a home in the village for an AIDS infected young woman with nowhere to stay (who incidentally was taken in by a woman who once cast out of her home for her positive status  had used her considerable talent as a basket weaver to build a small home for herself) and a check-up on a child reported not to be attending school.  Fluent in KiSwahili and the local KiHeHe, the couple’s house is a beehive of activity, with community members and their young toddlers filtering in and out in a steady flow.  


Quite honestly, I could go on and on about the work that they are doing, but the truth is, I could barely keep up with all the initiatives they are involved in.  What struck me even beyond this is how much love emanated from their home.  To see so much hurt and sadness and transform it into opportunity and empowerment is not something many people can accomplish.  There is work instead of handouts and with it, a chance for something better.  Whether it is childcare or basket weaving or rocket science, isn’t it all a chance to taste the fulfillment that comes with sharing our gifts with others?  An image I can’t shake from my mind is that of a young mentally disabled woman, pregnant with the child of her attacker and HIV positive as a result, sitting and cutting grass for 2500 shilling ($1.50) a day.  Arguably, this might not be an illustration of fulfillment.  But then, at its most basic, isn’t an opportunity to become self sufficient satisfying in itself?


I’ve had a lot of conflicting thoughts about the development industry this past year, few of which I’ve resolved with any certainty.  But this experience brought home to me a truth: these are people.  Actual flesh and blood people- with disappointments, struggles and hopes for the future.  Sure, the current overriding model of development is not sustainable.  Yes, there is waste and ways to do things better.  But while we figure that out, what do we tell that woman cutting the grass?  To me it has to be something like this: ‘you are worth something, let me help you’.

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